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Cox: Real Thai street food in Santa Rosa

  • Shrimp Fresh Rolls from Baan Thai restaurant in the Larkfield Shopping Center. (JOHN BURGESS / The Press Democrat)

Some of Sonoma County's superstar chefs have made excursions to Southeast Asia for its famous and ubiquitous street food. A friend who joined a group led by chef John Ash said the group cancelled its reservation at a gourmet restaurant in favor of happily eating their way through the low-cost, high-flavor food stalls.

The good news is that we don't have to travel all the way to Bangkok to taste Thai street food. The menu at Baan Thai Restaurant in the Larkfield Center of north Santa Rosa has a number of items that you'd find in the food carts in the Thai capital. The only difference would be a lower level of spiciness tailored to American palates, and American prices that are higher than you'd find on the streets of Bangkok.

But the Shrimp Fresh Rolls ($8.95, 3-1/2 stars) would be the same, and the presentation just as beautiful. Thai cooks love to make artful displays of their food, and this plate of eight pieces of fresh roll is decorated with an upright stand of long, slender mushrooms accompanied by a leafy explosion of celery leaves. Rice noodle wrappers hold steamed shrimp, slithery and translucent noodles, sesame seeds, bits of carrot, cucumber and onion, all dressed in a garlic-lime sauce.

Baan Thai

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Satay is iconic Thai street food, and usually consists of beef, chicken or pork. Among Baan Thai's nightly specials of three appetizers and nine entrees was something different: Lamb Satay ($8.95, 3 stars). Each of four bamboo skewers was heavy with six bite-sized chunks of tender grilled lamb served with a peanut sauce that had been oddly pureed to a homogenous soup. A small cucumber, carrot and red onion salad came with the satay.

One dish you'll find for sure in the food stalls of Bangkok is deep-fried fish cakes. And you'll find them at Baan Thai, too, along with the spicy green papaya salad that's a staple throughout the countries of Southeast Asia. Stir-fried pork with spicy basil is on the menu in Larkfield and offered by Bangkok street vendors. And, of course, so is the stir-fried noodle dish called pad Thai.

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