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Cox: Lots to like at M.Y. China

  • Executive chef Tony Wu showcases noodle pulling, a traditional method of making noodles by hand, at Martin Yan's new M.Y. China restaurant in the Graton Resort Casino in Rohnert Park. Chef Wu can pull 16,000 noodles by hand and at one time with this method. (CONNER JAY / PD)

High-quality service is hard to come by. Good service is plentiful, but service that is at once unobtrusive yet closely attentive, and that makes the patron feel important without any fawning by the server — that's rare.

Yet I found it at M.Y. China, Martin Yan's duplicate version of his Market Street restaurant in San Francisco, located in the Graton Resort & Casino in Rohnert Park. The service itself was a big part of the pleasure of dining there.

There is a downside to the location. The restaurant is open to the casino floor, so it can be noisy. Worse, because Indian casinos can allow smoking, the smell from the gaming floor tends to waft into M.Y. China.

M.Y. China at Graton Resort & Casino


As you walk into the restaurant, there's a large full bar where you can eat and drink and watch the noodle pullers. These guys are adults' equivalent of the pizza throwers at Mary's Pizza Shacks that so entertain the kids. It's fun to watch them pull long ropes of dough out to the full length of their outstretched arms, then twist the dough into coils, then pull it back out.

The noodles go into dishes like Beijing Knife-Cut Noodles ($12, 3 stars). Pieces of a noodle rope are laid hot in the bottom of a bowl. They're topped with cool cucumbers, bean sprouts, a puff of carrot threads, and a sprig or two of cilantro. A hot, very spicy bean sauce containing black Chinese mushrooms is poured beside the vegetables.

As you fish down in the bowl to bring up a piece of noodle, you also get smidgens of the other ingredients that combine in different ways — all fresh and delicious. It's a fun and interesting bowl of very good food.

This is not a typical Chinese restaurant with a hundred combinations of a handful of ingredients. These are creations by master cooks Martin Yan and executive chef Tony Wu.

The walls of the main dining room are a strong pattern of black and white lit from below, while ceiling partitions are red.

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