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Cox: Where the wine shines

  • Smoked Sturgeon Salad at Lulu's Kitchen in Napa offers braised greens enhanced by a bacon-mustard vinaigrette. Three little slabs of lightly-smoked sturgeon filet give meaty substance to the greens. (CONNER JAY / PD)

It's all about the wine at Lulu's Kitchen in Napa, although the place also is a small-plates restaurant. That's because Lulu's is located within the larger context of 1313 Main, a lounge and wine bar of considerable delights.

The wine lists — there are several — are so astounding that the food almost becomes an afterthought.

The ambiance is sexy, urbane and comfortable, with cool jazz on the sound system and seats at tables and at the wine bar. Servers with ready smiles keep things moving until the room fills up, after which you may wait a bit for someone to notice that your table is crowded with finished plates and clear them away.

Lulu's Kitchen in Napa

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Tuesdays from 4 to 10 p.m. is Locals' Night, although you don't have to be a local to participate. Champagne Veuve Cliquot is served — $10 for a glass of yellow label and $25 for a glass of 2004 La Grande Dame — along with small bites that vary week to week.

Chef Isaac Coles and sous chef Evan Doyle keep wine in mind when preparing Lulu's food, but they don't presume to pair their creations, leaving that task to the sophisticated palates of their patrons. For starters, they've put together six “Bites.”

The first bite lists Mac and Cheese ($4, 2 stars) as pan-fried, but the thick mix of commercial pasta and cheese was burned black and bitter on the bottom. The dish uses four delicious cheeses, though, and laces them with pancetta alongside an apple-celery slaw.

A Lobster Roll ($4, 3 stars) was bite-sized but buttery-good, with Maine lobster piled on a house-made bun the size of a silver dollar. We split it three ways at our table and wished we'd ordered three of them.

Moo Shoo Mushroom ($10, 3 stars) wrapped the subtle flavor of forest mushrooms in a thin rice flour pancake tweaked with a little vinegar and drizzled with a hoisin sauce brightened with yuzu.

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