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Kenwood R&B: Absolutely fab

  • The Ahi Tartare ($14, ***) at Kenwood Restaurant and Bar is exemplary of chef/owner Max Schachers skillful respect for top ingredients. (JEFF KAN LEE / The Press Democrat)

The Kenwood Restaurant and Bar has long been known for the consistent quality of its Swiss-French cuisine. But after a recent tour through new and familiar dishes there, it seems the quality has ticked up a notch further.

Which is a tribute to Chef Max Schacher, for he has been at his stoves and ovens for 45 years 21 in Kenwood and 24 before that in other restaurants here and abroad. During this time, he has mastered classic French dishes like his Country Style Duck Pate ($11 ****) served with a small pot of piquant mustard, pickled onions, cornichons, olives and crostini.

Its possible to find some very fine pates served in this area. Chef Philippe Jeanty makes a superb duck foie gras pate at Bistro Jeanty in Yountville, for one example. But Maxs pate is anyones equal. Theres a hint of duck liver and plenty of sweet, rich, ground duck meat, plus enough black pepper to pleasantly prickle your tongue. The pate fills a mold, then is covered with half an inch of aspic and chilled so the aspic jells. Slices are taken as orders reach the kitchen so each cold slice has an edging of melt-in-your-mouth aspic. This rustic pate is excellent, but from time to time, when the mood strikes him, Chef Schacher will make a mousse-style foie gras pate as smooth as silk, pinkish gray, with an elegant flavor. Lucky are those who arrive when the duck mousse pate is available.

And then theres the chicken. Chicken is so easy to over- or undercook, especially when orders are backed up and the kitchen is hustling, and especially when the cut is the delicate breast.

Schacher and his sous chef, John Pardy (JP to his friends), go straight for the heart of the challenge, offering a Grilled Chicken Breast ($24 ***) with a mixture of wild and white rice and golden raisin chutney. All of this sits in a pool of curry sauce. The chicken is a revelation, although its title on the menu is a misnomer: Its not grilled. The breast is dredged in flour and condiments then pan seared just to the point where its skin is semi-crispy. Its then popped into a hot oven for exactly the right amount of time, until the flesh inside is perfectly juicy and its cooked to the same degree of doneness from just under the skin to the center of the meat. At first I thought it was cooked sous-vide (in an airtight plastic bag in hot water for many hours), a technique that produces a similar textural effect, but without the crispy skin. How the kitchen achieves this is a mystery, except to say that its a mastery of knowing exactly I mean exactly when the pan should come out of the oven. Presumably after 45 years, you do get a feel for it.

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