Bite Club: Scopa

Worth the wait: Reservations are for suckers. Er, until Bite Club gets wait-listed and told to cool her hungry heels for "45 minutes to an hour."

Consider me among the eager masses huddled around the front doors of Ari Rosen's new casual Italian eatery, Scopa. The shoebox-size restaurant opened earlier this month next to Healdsburg's Bistro Ralph, featuring simple, rustic fare from the former Santi chef. The name refers to an ancient Italian card game that, like poker, requires plenty of bluffing, banter, booze and snacks to be properly played.

Deal me in.

The vibe is extremely casual, with smiling, T-shirted waitrons, no stemware, a reasonably-priced wine list that hovers mostly in the $30-$40 range and relaxed dishes that beg for bread-sopping and cross-table sharing. There are only a handful of tables, smushed together bistro-style along the right wall; several tall bar tables for two are along the left.

Start with Larry Pacini's house-made Ciabatta ($2), which you'll gladly use in place of a fork, napkin or spoon. This is serious soaking bread. The Tonno Del Chianti ($8) is cold, shredded pork that's been preserved in oil, "tuna style." Served up with a tangy balsamic fig jam and greens, it's a refreshing appetizer for two.

The real thriller, however, is the burrata ($9). Some of you may know of my absolutely ridiculous passion for fresh mozzarella. I've spent years tracking the perfect ball. I've still never found it. This burrata, made by a couple in San Diego, is an insane little orb of tender mozzarella with a soft, creamy middle that comes about as close to perfection as I've found stateside.

The one major stinker of the night was finding out the house-made gnocchi with Napoletano meat ragu ($16) was sold out. The Orecchiette (literally "little ears," $16) was a pale consolation, studded with turnip greens, chili flakes and ricotta. Not that it was bad. It just wasn't as good as the rest of the meal. I still licked the bowl clean while thinking about how much I wished I had a plate of fresh ravioli stuffed with ricotta, nettles and covered in brown butter sage sauce ($16).

The entrees are small, so there's no shame in ordering a couple if you're really hungry.

With so little space inside, the sheer press of humanity, clinking glasses and wafts of garlic and olive oil can make for a heady experience. Embrace it. And feel yourself embraced back by the warmth, honest cooking and impromptu camaraderie of Scopa. It's in the cards.

Scopa: 109A Plaza St., Healdsburg, 433-5282. Reservations recommended. Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 to 10 p.m.

There's always more delicious Wine Country dish waiting at biteclub.pressdemocrat.com.

-- HEATHER IRWIN