Classic quiche sans crust

I suppose crustless quiche is a contradiction in terms, like seared ceviche. But if, like me, you sometimes crave what amounts to savory pie filling without the hassle of making an actual crust, this is the way to go. (The other option is to buy a crust and fill it, but if you can find a good pre-made crust you're a better shopper than I am.) I don't question the fact that a good crust can add flavor and crunch to cheese custard, but there are times when I'm not willing to put up with either the work or the extra calories that come along with that crust.

You can play around with the cheese, using goat or cream cheese, or ricotta, backing off on the cream a little. You can add herbs or you can add herb pastes, like pesto; again, reduce the cream a bit.

Crustless 'Quiche'

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Time: 30 to 40 minutes

1 cup cream, half-and-half, milk or a combination, gently heated just until warm

3 eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup grated Emmenthal, Gruyere, Cantal or a combination

¼ cup grated Parmesan or hard pecorino

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cayenne, or to taste

-- Butter as needed

Heat oven to 325 degrees and set rack in middle of it.

Combine all ingredients except butter and beat until well blended.

Pour into 4 to 6 buttered ramekins (or a buttered pie plate) and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until almost firm; it should still jiggle just a little in middle. Cool on a rack, then serve warm or at room temperature.